How To Make A Box

If you want to make your built-ins individual pieces so that they can be rearranged at a later date or taken along with you if you move to a new home, you can follow the techniques shown here. In this section is a basic primer of construction details. The first part of any built-in is the "box" - that is, the sides, top and bottom. These parts can be joined in many different ways.

Which you select depends upon the tools you have, the time you wish to spend making the built-in and the finished results you hope to achieve. Certainly, a group of shelves to be built-in the basement workshop need not be the same as those added in a living room. Nor does a storage cabinet with a hinged door made to hold soap powders and related items in the laundry room have to look like the cabinet made to hold tableware in the dining room.

Use your own imagination and talents and produce the best job you need for the location. No matter what the built-in, it will add to your home's appearance.

Adding a Back Panel

A back panel is necessary with many built-ins. This panel can be made of a number of materials. If it is to be concealed, that is, placed flush against the wall, you can use 1/8'' hardboard or ¼'' plywood. On the other hand, if the back panel is exposed, as in the case of a room divider, you will want to use an attractive finish. Either of the previously mentioned materials can be used and then painted, or you can use hardwood-veneered plywood to match the hardwood sides and top. In some cases, you might use ¾'' plywood and cover the hack panel with a plastic laminate, such as Formica or Micarta.

In the plans given later in this section, there are many different installation methods used for the back panel. For simplicity purposes, there are in this part of the built- in section, three simple methods which any handyman can use. Examine them closely and see which fits your needs best. In one instance, all you need is a hammer or screwdriver and the back panel is in place. However, if you want the back panel indented so that it is flush with the edges of the top, sides and bottom, you will find a choice of two additional methods of attaching the back panel.

Plan all details of construction carefully before you start to cut any of the pieces. This will save you time and labor.

How to add Shelves

Once the basic "box" and back panel fastening have been decided upon, you can plan the other details. Note that planning precedes building, for modifications are often necessary as you progress with your planning. Therefore, complete all your planning before you lay out your work to be cut.

While the technique of adding a shelf is an important factor, the thickness of the shelf must be decided upon first. If the shelf is going to support a heavy load or if it extends over a long distance with nothing but the end supports, it is necessary to use thicker lumber than if the shelf will hold just a few knick-knacks or be only 12" long.

Follow the shelf size details in the following plans; they are based on safe loads for use.

If you plan your own unit, here are a few hints in selecting the right thickness for a shelf. For heavy duty shelves - for books or records - use ¾'' thick plywood or solid stock. For light duty shelves - more ornamental than functional - you can use ¼'' or 3/8'' shelves. For many built-ins, where the shelf does not exceed 36" in length, ½'' plywood is adequate.

Your choice of Doors

While open shelves have their place in built-ins, you will probably want to use some storage compartments with doors. What type of door you build will depend upon your ability with tools, the design you are using and the decorating scheme into which the built-in is being set.

Shown on this page arc three different styles of doors. There are three basic types with variations in each case. For example, sliding doors can be made of many different materials. You can use double-thickness or plate glass, 1/8'' hardboard, 3/8^'' Novoply, ¼'' plywood or ¾'' boards. The type of slide you use can also vary. You can make dadoes in the top and bottom panels and let the doors slide in these. You may use standard sliding door hardware.

Or you might like the new hardware where both sliding doors are flush and are on the same track.

Deciding to use a hinged door is not the final answer to your door problem either. What type of hinge will you use; a butt hinge, offset hinge, invisible hinge, pivot hinge, or other?

You might want rolling doors on your built-in. The doors just 'fold" back into the unit and are out of the way and out of sight. Study the techniques of attaching doors, decide upon your own capabilities and refer to related sections in these volumes for additional details.

Making a Drawer

In addition to shelves or a cabinet with a door, you will find drawers very convenient for easy-to- get-at storage. The simplest drawer you can build is merely a "box" with butt joints at each of the four corners and a back panel attached to the outside as just described incepted by most designers and how-to writers. Here is a standard drawer, like the ones you will find in most of your furniture.

The ends of the drawer front are rabbeted so that the sides fit into these openings. A dado or groove is cut horizontally along the inside of the drawer front and the drawer bottom fits into that groove.

The sides have dadoes cut near the back edge so that the drawer back fits into these slots. The sides are the same height as the drawer front and fit over the drawer bottom.

The drawer back not only fits into the grooves in the sides but is not as deep as the drawer front. The back rests on the drawer bottom when the entire unit is assembled.

Securing a Hanging Built-in

Many contemporary built-ins are hung on the wall. They leave the floor space below free and therefore add storage space as well as beauty without taking practically any room. How to secure a hanging built-in to the wall depends upon the built-in and the wall material.

Simplest method of securing a hanging built-in to the wall is to attach it with screws directly into the wall studs. It is necessary to predrill the holes through the back of the built-in and through the wall into the stud. However, if the back panel of the built-in is made of a "thin" material, such as 1/8'' hardboard or ¼'' plywood, and the built-in is intended to support any reasonable weight, it is necessary to reinforce the back panel. This is done by attaching a cleat inside the built-in and fastening it to the sides and top or bottom. You can do this by adding cleats to hold the back panel and using these cleats for anchoring to the wall.

If the design of your built-in is such that no cleats are used inside the unit and the back panel is "thin," you can add a plain or decorative cleat across the bottom of the unit and another across the top. Then the unit is secured with screws through the cleats into the wall studs or with special fasteners into the wall itself. If the built-in supports any considerable weight, try to anchor it to the studs.

If you want to make your built-ins individual pieces so that they can be rearranged at a later date or taken along with you if you move to a new home, you can follow the techniques shown here. In this section is a basic primer of construction details. The first part of any built-in is the "box" - that is, the sides, top and bottom. These parts can be joined in many different ways.
Which you select depends upon the tools you have, the time you wish to spend making the built-in and the finished results you hope to achieve. Certainly, a group of shelves to be built-in the basement workshop need not be the same as those added in a living room. Nor does a storage cabinet with a hinged door made to hold soap powders and related items in the laundry room have to look like the cabinet made to hold tableware in the dining room.
Use your own imagination and talents and produce the best job you need for the location. No matter what the built-in, it will add to your home's appearance.
Adding a Back Panel
A back panel is necessary with many built-ins. This panel can be made of a number of materials. If it is to be concealed, that is, placed flush against the wall, you can use 1/8'' hardboard or ¼'' plywood. On the other hand, if the back panel is exposed, as in the case of a room divider, you will want to use an attractive finish. Either of the previously mentioned materials can be used and then painted, or you can use hardwood-veneered plywood to match the hardwood sides and top. In some cases, you might use ¾'' plywood and cover the hack panel with a plastic laminate, such as Formica or Micarta.
In the plans given later in this section, there are many different installation methods used for the back panel. For simplicity purposes, there are in this part of the built- in section, three simple methods which any handyman can use. Examine them closely and see which fits your needs best. In one instance, all you need is a hammer or screwdriver and the back panel is in place. However, if you want the back panel indented so that it is flush with the edges of the top, sides and bottom, you will find a choice of two additional methods of attaching the back panel.
Plan all details of construction carefully before you start to cut any of the pieces. This will save you time and labor.
How to add Shelves
Once the basic "box" and back panel fastening have been decided upon, you can plan the other details. Note that planning precedes building, for modifications are often necessary as you progress with your planning. Therefore, complete all your planning before you lay out your work to be cut.
While the technique of adding a shelf is an important factor, the thickness of the shelf must be decided upon first. If the shelf is going to support a heavy load or if it extends over a long distance with nothing but the end supports, it is necessary to use thicker lumber than if the shelf will hold just a few knick-knacks or be only 12" long.
Follow the shelf size details in the following plans; they are based on safe loads for use.
If you plan your own unit, here are a few hints in selecting the right thickness for a shelf. For heavy duty shelves - for books or records - use ¾'' thick plywood or solid stock. For light duty shelves - more ornamental than functional - you can use ¼'' or 3/8'' shelves. For many built-ins, where the shelf does not exceed 36" in length, ½'' plywood is adequate.
Your choice of Doors
While open shelves have their place in built-ins, you will probably want to use some storage compartments with doors. What type of door you build will depend upon your ability with tools, the design you are using and the decorating scheme into which the built-in is being set.
Shown on this page arc three different styles of doors. There are three basic types with variations in each case. For example, sliding doors can be made of many different materials. You can use double-thickness or plate glass, 1/8'' hardboard, 3/8^'' Novoply, ¼'' plywood or ¾'' boards. The type of slide you use can also vary. You can make dadoes in the top and bottom panels and let the doors slide in these. You may use standard sliding door hardware.
Or you might like the new hardware where both sliding doors are flush and are on the same track.
Deciding to use a hinged door is not the final answer to your door problem either. What type of hinge will you use; a butt hinge, offset hinge, invisible hinge, pivot hinge, or other?
You might want rolling doors on your built-in. The doors just 'fold" back into the unit and are out of the way and out of sight. Study the techniques of attaching doors, decide upon your own capabilities and refer to related sections in these volumes for additional details.
Making a Drawer
In addition to shelves or a cabinet with a door, you will find drawers very convenient for easy-to- get-at storage. The simplest drawer you can build is merely a "box" with butt joints at each of the four corners and a back panel attached to the outside as just described incepted by most designers and how-to writers. Here is a standard drawer, like the ones you will find in most of your furniture.
The ends of the drawer front are rabbeted so that the sides fit into these openings. A dado or groove is cut horizontally along the inside of the drawer front and the drawer bottom fits into that groove.
The sides have dadoes cut near the back edge so that the drawer back fits into these slots. The sides are the same height as the drawer front and fit over the drawer bottom.
The drawer back not only fits into the grooves in the sides but is not as deep as the drawer front. The back rests on the drawer bottom when the entire unit is assembled.
Securing a Hanging Built-in
Many contemporary built-ins are hung on the wall. They leave the floor space below free and therefore add storage space as well as beauty without taking practically any room. How to secure a hanging built-in to the wall depends upon the built-in and the wall material.
Simplest method of securing a hanging built-in to the wall is to attach it with screws directly into the wall studs. It is necessary to predrill the holes through the back of the built-in and through the wall into the stud. However, if the back panel of the built-in is made of a "thin" material, such as 1/8'' hardboard or ¼'' plywood, and the built-in is intended to support any reasonable weight, it is necessary to reinforce the back panel. This is done by attaching a cleat inside the built-in and fastening it to the sides and top or bottom. You can do this by adding cleats to hold the back panel and using these cleats for anchoring to the wall.
If the design of your built-in is such that no cleats are used inside the unit and the back panel is "thin," you can add a plain or decorative cleat across the bottom of the unit and another across the top. Then the unit is secured with screws through the cleats into the wall studs or with special fasteners into the wall itself. If the built-in supports any considerable weight, try to anchor it to the studs.


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7284745

If you want to make your built-ins individual pieces so that they can be rearranged at a later date or taken along with you if you move to a new home, you can follow the techniques shown here. In this section is a basic primer of construction details. The first part of any built-in is the "box" - that is, the sides, top and bottom. These parts can be joined in many different ways.
Which you select depends upon the tools you have, the time you wish to spend making the built-in and the finished results you hope to achieve. Certainly, a group of shelves to be built-in the basement workshop need not be the same as those added in a living room. Nor does a storage cabinet with a hinged door made to hold soap powders and related items in the laundry room have to look like the cabinet made to hold tableware in the dining room.
Use your own imagination and talents and produce the best job you need for the location. No matter what the built-in, it will add to your home's appearance.
Adding a Back Panel
A back panel is necessary with many built-ins. This panel can be made of a number of materials. If it is to be concealed, that is, placed flush against the wall, you can use 1/8'' hardboard or ¼'' plywood. On the other hand, if the back panel is exposed, as in the case of a room divider, you will want to use an attractive finish. Either of the previously mentioned materials can be used and then painted, or you can use hardwood-veneered plywood to match the hardwood sides and top. In some cases, you might use ¾'' plywood and cover the hack panel with a plastic laminate, such as Formica or Micarta.
In the plans given later in this section, there are many different installation methods used for the back panel. For simplicity purposes, there are in this part of the built- in section, three simple methods which any handyman can use. Examine them closely and see which fits your needs best. In one instance, all you need is a hammer or screwdriver and the back panel is in place. However, if you want the back panel indented so that it is flush with the edges of the top, sides and bottom, you will find a choice of two additional methods of attaching the back panel.
Plan all details of construction carefully before you start to cut any of the pieces. This will save you time and labor.
How to add Shelves
Once the basic "box" and back panel fastening have been decided upon, you can plan the other details. Note that planning precedes building, for modifications are often necessary as you progress with your planning. Therefore, complete all your planning before you lay out your work to be cut.
While the technique of adding a shelf is an important factor, the thickness of the shelf must be decided upon first. If the shelf is going to support a heavy load or if it extends over a long distance with nothing but the end supports, it is necessary to use thicker lumber than if the shelf will hold just a few knick-knacks or be only 12" long.
Follow the shelf size details in the following plans; they are based on safe loads for use.
If you plan your own unit, here are a few hints in selecting the right thickness for a shelf. For heavy duty shelves - for books or records - use ¾'' thick plywood or solid stock. For light duty shelves - more ornamental than functional - you can use ¼'' or 3/8'' shelves. For many built-ins, where the shelf does not exceed 36" in length, ½'' plywood is adequate.
Your choice of Doors
While open shelves have their place in built-ins, you will probably want to use some storage compartments with doors. What type of door you build will depend upon your ability with tools, the design you are using and the decorating scheme into which the built-in is being set.
Shown on this page arc three different styles of doors. There are three basic types with variations in each case. For example, sliding doors can be made of many different materials. You can use double-thickness or plate glass, 1/8'' hardboard, 3/8^'' Novoply, ¼'' plywood or ¾'' boards. The type of slide you use can also vary. You can make dadoes in the top and bottom panels and let the doors slide in these. You may use standard sliding door hardware.
Or you might like the new hardware where both sliding doors are flush and are on the same track.
Deciding to use a hinged door is not the final answer to your door problem either. What type of hinge will you use; a butt hinge, offset hinge, invisible hinge, pivot hinge, or other?
You might want rolling doors on your built-in. The doors just 'fold" back into the unit and are out of the way and out of sight. Study the techniques of attaching doors, decide upon your own capabilities and refer to related sections in these volumes for additional details.
Making a Drawer
In addition to shelves or a cabinet with a door, you will find drawers very convenient for easy-to- get-at storage. The simplest drawer you can build is merely a "box" with butt joints at each of the four corners and a back panel attached to the outside as just described incepted by most designers and how-to writers. Here is a standard drawer, like the ones you will find in most of your furniture.
The ends of the drawer front are rabbeted so that the sides fit into these openings. A dado or groove is cut horizontally along the inside of the drawer front and the drawer bottom fits into that groove.
The sides have dadoes cut near the back edge so that the drawer back fits into these slots. The sides are the same height as the drawer front and fit over the drawer bottom.
The drawer back not only fits into the grooves in the sides but is not as deep as the drawer front. The back rests on the drawer bottom when the entire unit is assembled.
Securing a Hanging Built-in
Many contemporary built-ins are hung on the wall. They leave the floor space below free and therefore add storage space as well as beauty without taking practically any room. How to secure a hanging built-in to the wall depends upon the built-in and the wall material.
Simplest method of securing a hanging built-in to the wall is to attach it with screws directly into the wall studs. It is necessary to predrill the holes through the back of the built-in and through the wall into the stud. However, if the back panel of the built-in is made of a "thin" material, such as 1/8'' hardboard or ¼'' plywood, and the built-in is intended to support any reasonable weight, it is necessary to reinforce the back panel. This is done by attaching a cleat inside the built-in and fastening it to the sides and top or bottom. You can do this by adding cleats to hold the back panel and using these cleats for anchoring to the wall.
If the design of your built-in is such that no cleats are used inside the unit and the back panel is "thin," you can add a plain or decorative cleat across the bottom of the unit and another across the top. Then the unit is secured with screws through the cleats into the wall studs or with special fasteners into the wall itself. If the built-in supports any considerable weight, try to anchor it to the studs.


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7284745

If you want to make your built-ins individual pieces so that they can be rearranged at a later date or taken along with you if you move to a new home, you can follow the techniques shown here. In this section is a basic primer of construction details. The first part of any built-in is the "box" - that is, the sides, top and bottom. These parts can be joined in many different ways.
Which you select depends upon the tools you have, the time you wish to spend making the built-in and the finished results you hope to achieve. Certainly, a group of shelves to be built-in the basement workshop need not be the same as those added in a living room. Nor does a storage cabinet with a hinged door made to hold soap powders and related items in the laundry room have to look like the cabinet made to hold tableware in the dining room.
Use your own imagination and talents and produce the best job you need for the location. No matter what the built-in, it will add to your home's appearance.
Adding a Back Panel
A back panel is necessary with many built-ins. This panel can be made of a number of materials. If it is to be concealed, that is, placed flush against the wall, you can use 1/8'' hardboard or ¼'' plywood. On the other hand, if the back panel is exposed, as in the case of a room divider, you will want to use an attractive finish. Either of the previously mentioned materials can be used and then painted, or you can use hardwood-veneered plywood to match the hardwood sides and top. In some cases, you might use ¾'' plywood and cover the hack panel with a plastic laminate, such as Formica or Micarta.
In the plans given later in this section, there are many different installation methods used for the back panel. For simplicity purposes, there are in this part of the built- in section, three simple methods which any handyman can use. Examine them closely and see which fits your needs best. In one instance, all you need is a hammer or screwdriver and the back panel is in place. However, if you want the back panel indented so that it is flush with the edges of the top, sides and bottom, you will find a choice of two additional methods of attaching the back panel.
Plan all details of construction carefully before you start to cut any of the pieces. This will save you time and labor.
How to add Shelves
Once the basic "box" and back panel fastening have been decided upon, you can plan the other details. Note that planning precedes building, for modifications are often necessary as you progress with your planning. Therefore, complete all your planning before you lay out your work to be cut.
While the technique of adding a shelf is an important factor, the thickness of the shelf must be decided upon first. If the shelf is going to support a heavy load or if it extends over a long distance with nothing but the end supports, it is necessary to use thicker lumber than if the shelf will hold just a few knick-knacks or be only 12" long.
Follow the shelf size details in the following plans; they are based on safe loads for use.
If you plan your own unit, here are a few hints in selecting the right thickness for a shelf. For heavy duty shelves - for books or records - use ¾'' thick plywood or solid stock. For light duty shelves - more ornamental than functional - you can use ¼'' or 3/8'' shelves. For many built-ins, where the shelf does not exceed 36" in length, ½'' plywood is adequate.
Your choice of Doors
While open shelves have their place in built-ins, you will probably want to use some storage compartments with doors. What type of door you build will depend upon your ability with tools, the design you are using and the decorating scheme into which the built-in is being set.
Shown on this page arc three different styles of doors. There are three basic types with variations in each case. For example, sliding doors can be made of many different materials. You can use double-thickness or plate glass, 1/8'' hardboard, 3/8^'' Novoply, ¼'' plywood or ¾'' boards. The type of slide you use can also vary. You can make dadoes in the top and bottom panels and let the doors slide in these. You may use standard sliding door hardware.
Or you might like the new hardware where both sliding doors are flush and are on the same track.
Deciding to use a hinged door is not the final answer to your door problem either. What type of hinge will you use; a butt hinge, offset hinge, invisible hinge, pivot hinge, or other?
You might want rolling doors on your built-in. The doors just 'fold" back into the unit and are out of the way and out of sight. Study the techniques of attaching doors, decide upon your own capabilities and refer to related sections in these volumes for additional details.
Making a Drawer
In addition to shelves or a cabinet with a door, you will find drawers very convenient for easy-to- get-at storage. The simplest drawer you can build is merely a "box" with butt joints at each of the four corners and a back panel attached to the outside as just described incepted by most designers and how-to writers. Here is a standard drawer, like the ones you will find in most of your furniture.
The ends of the drawer front are rabbeted so that the sides fit into these openings. A dado or groove is cut horizontally along the inside of the drawer front and the drawer bottom fits into that groove.
The sides have dadoes cut near the back edge so that the drawer back fits into these slots. The sides are the same height as the drawer front and fit over the drawer bottom.
The drawer back not only fits into the grooves in the sides but is not as deep as the drawer front. The back rests on the drawer bottom when the entire unit is assembled.
Securing a Hanging Built-in
Many contemporary built-ins are hung on the wall. They leave the floor space below free and therefore add storage space as well as beauty without taking practically any room. How to secure a hanging built-in to the wall depends upon the built-in and the wall material.
Simplest method of securing a hanging built-in to the wall is to attach it with screws directly into the wall studs. It is necessary to predrill the holes through the back of the built-in and through the wall into the stud. However, if the back panel of the built-in is made of a "thin" material, such as 1/8'' hardboard or ¼'' plywood, and the built-in is intended to support any reasonable weight, it is necessary to reinforce the back panel. This is done by attaching a cleat inside the built-in and fastening it to the sides and top or bottom. You can do this by adding cleats to hold the back panel and using these cleats for anchoring to the wall.
If the design of your built-in is such that no cleats are used inside the unit and the back panel is "thin," you can add a plain or decorative cleat across the bottom of the unit and another across the top. Then the unit is secured with screws through the cleats into the wall studs or with special fasteners into the wall itself. If the built-in supports any considerable weight, try to anchor it to the studs.


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